Wednesday, 27 August 2014

Experience: Viking Grace + Turku

This is the 2nd part of a trip report; The whole story can be found under the tag I Must Travel Otherwise I'll Die 2014; First part can be read here.
My beautiful journey is over now, which means that I can finally focus on making it into a story and writing it down for you to read. I left the last post off at continuing to Turku, which I did the next morning. When I first arrived in Turku, I felt a bit confused because the railway station is not exactly the heart of the city and I really had no clue where to go. A quick look at the map fixed that and I headed towards the river where my hostel ship is docked. I stayed on board the Bore, who has a long history connecting Sweden and Finland as a steamship since she was built in 1960. In 1987 she was rebuilt into a cruise ship and her steam engines were replaced with diesel ones and until 2010 she was operated by Kristina Cruises. Although I never got to sail on her, the hostel experience was quite lovely. My cabin was a rather compact one with one bed and an even smaller bathroom. After leaving my suitcase there I went exploring, but since it was Sunday many places were closed so I didn't stay in the center for very long. Instead I chose to kill some time in the hostel common room, which turned out easier than expected. I ended up going for a walk late at night with an Italian I met there.

My home in Turku
Perhaps a nicer view
Suomen Joutsen, a ship with a very long and colourful history that started in 1902, now a museum ship.
Turku castle
Aura river and Turku Cathedral
The heart of the city. For some reason Turku is known as the rear end of Finland, thus the awesome slogan.
Look, I found a flower!
Sigyn, also a museum ship, built in 1887.
Fountain sculpture Harmonia, by Achim Kuehn.
Föri, the southernmost way to cross the Aura river. 
She has been in service since 1903, every day almost all year round. The crossing is free and takes about a minute. Therefore I think it's obvious why I didn't write a separate "Experience: Föri" post.
Several tall cranes stand on both sides near the river mouth of Aura. 
At night Turku was just as beautiful.

Aura river and ships at night
 I had planned the next day for some nice shopping, which I did until I found a really nice small shiny typewriter at a thrift shop. Since I've wanted one for years it was a must-get. The next several hours were spent rearranging my suitcase to squeeze it in.

Quite nice, huh?
One more reason to like Turku - Almost the whole city is somehow sea-related, including several stores. The Forum Marinum store sells postcards of old Viking Line and Silja Line ships. I was so tempted.

In another store I found a rather helpful pair of socks - green for right, red for left, a simple way to avoid arguments between crew members. I wonder how many accidents have been caused by people wearing these on wrong feet.

Welcome to the very heart of Turku

The park on the east bank is actually really nice...
...allowing some wonderful views over the west bank and the center.
Valley

When I left the hostel heading for the harbour, I was given the most beautiful farewell. 
After two eventful days in Turku I took the Viking Grace to Stockholm. She started service in early 2013 and even though I've visited the Legend of the Seas, she still really impressed me. In fact, although I'm yet to try the Silja Symphonade sisters, I dare to say that Viking Grace is probably the nicest floating thing on northern Baltic Sea. I'd also give two extra points to Viking Line for free candy, one for each bed in the cabin - quite nice when you're alone in a cabin of four. I started my voyage in the Wellness Spa. Located on Deck 11 in a room with panorama windows, it was really nice to relax in a jacuzzi and watch the rainy weather as we raced past a small tugboat towing a barge. There was also saunas of all kinds and a real snow cave which was a great place to go after a hot herbal sauna. After my spa visit was over there wasn't so much to do besides shopping and looking around - the performance on board that night wasn't exactly my taste and I was hopelessly late for karaoke.

Baltic Princess nearby, taken before boarding
My cabin
The cabin corridors have quite a clever design.
Mandatory funnel picture
Leaving Tallink's Sea Wind behind
Kids' playroom
Staircases have also become something I always take pictures of. 
Entrance to the Shopping World
The renowned atrium of Viking Grace...
.. next to a panorama window extending through three decks...
the neatest sitting area in the whole ship I'm sure

Quite a necessary addition to every cabin in a ship that arrives at 6:30
Awards for "Innovative layout for the handling of stores in combination with the practically designed food preparation areas", "Innovative interior design" - totally earned it - and "Environmental qualities; Being the first long-distance ferry with a dual fuel engine". During the first few months of her service she had to run on diesel but now she's running on LNG (liquefied natural gas), which means that she's silent and runs very smoothly. 
Deck 10 (obviously)
Outside Wellness Spa
The whole ship was looking as if she had popped out of a design magazine
Rockmore bar, where they played the best music
Retro bar, where the karaoke took place
Entrance to Vogue club
inside Vogue club.
What was the ship again?
Bye bye.
After disembarking early in the morning I continued my journey, boarding another ship; I'll tell that part of the story in my next post.


Next post - daycruise to Mariehamn

Saturday, 16 August 2014

Experience: Mariella + Helsinki & Tampere

The trip I waited for so long is finally happening and as promised I'm taking the chance to give an update. I've been able to give very brief daily updates on instagram, so if those interest you, feel free to follow me there as well.
I started with taking Mariella of Viking Line to Helsinki. She's usually on Helsinki-Stockholm route, but during this peak season she does a trip to Tallinn and back instead of staying in Helsinki all day. Obviously I couldn't let such a sweet chance go. Mariella's stop in Tallinn lasted for less than an hour, which means that I had to be in the terminal long before her arrival and I got to watch her come in to her sister's harbour spot. Mariella had everything one would expect to see in an overnight cruising ferry and her interior reminded me of the Cinderella, but it was clear that she's not quite the newest vessel in the fleet. I liked her large sundecks and the fact that the area under the bridge wings was accessible.

Mariella arriving and her fleetmate Viking XPRS
The info & wifi spot
Open decks
Bow visor closing as we depart...
...leaving Viking XPRS behind...
...as well as Victoria I
Silja Europa in Paljassaare
Cruise ships of the day - Royal Princess, MSC Poesia and Costa Fortuna
Royal Princess and MSC Poesia
Costa Fortuna leaving with us
Possibly the nicest place on board during summertime, although the vibration there was quite bad.
If I were to guess I'd say the captain has a thing for plants



Lifeboats, hopefully never to be used
Mandatory funnel picture
Karaoke at the night club
Underway...
Quite a nice view to accompany a slice of pizza.
Mariella's sister and ex-fleetmate Princess Anastasia near Helsinki
Superstar near Helsinki
AIDAmar in Helsinki
Silja Symphony and Seabourn Legend
Ex-fleetmates Club Med 2 and Wind Surf in Helsinki
Club Med 2
 
Silja Symphony departing

On my first day in Helsinki I didn't do much besides checking in to a hostel and walking around a bit. On the 2nd day I visited Linnanmäki which is a kind of a must-visit for me at least once every year. I've always had a thing for amusement parks.

Tulireki
Salama and Hurjakuru under it
Kingi, a freefall built this year, quickly became a favourite, especially because of the mighty view up there.
Ukko has also been a big fave ever since it was built in 2011
Vuoristorata, built in 1951.

The same evening I took a train to Tampere and met up with my friend Tuulia, who hosted me. The next day we looked around in Tampere, visited the Chilifest and a couple of stores.


They had literally everything made out of chili at the fest - chili sauces, chili marmalade, chili ice cream, you name it..

Quite the usual forest view at Pyynikki.

The Pyynikki tower. I visited this place two years ago, though this time I didn't even bother to climb up - I was here for the famous landmark doughnuts, which are possibly one of the most delicious things I've ever had. I had two on the spot and bought 6 for later.

Today consisted entirely of Särkänniemi - yeah, another amusement park
Koskiseikkailu and the Näsinneula tower
View from the viking ship
Me on Trombi, which was quite a rough ride
The swing ride; On the background Tornado, the best ride of the park, and Näsinneula tower.
Tomorrow early in the morning I'll continue to Turku. I have never been there before and common sense tells me that there's probably a lot more ships there than here in Tampere, although there's lots of small boats here on lake Näsijärvi. I hope I'll be able to update again soon.

Next post - Turku & Viking Grace

Sunday, 10 August 2014

Fare thee well, Silja Europa

It has been well over a year since I've done ship introductions but in the light of recent news I think it's needed. 
This is also the 50th post to this blog. 

Name: MS Silja Europa
IMO number:  8919805
Built: 1993
Lenght: 201,8m
Beam: 32,5m
Draught: 6,8m
Tonnage: 59,914 GT
Type: Cruiseferry
Speed: 21,5 knots
Capacity: 3644 passengers, 932 lanemeters
Status: Chartered, currently in Paljassaare Harbour

Silja Europa was built in the Papenburg yard of Meyer Werft, which is known as the birthplace of many great passenger ships, among others many Costa, Norwegian, Celebrity and Royal Caribbean ships, the whole AIDA Sphinx class, but also the late Viking Sally, finally known as Estonia. Ever since her delivery she has not gone any farther than her birthplace, nor outside the Baltic Sea at all. She was initially built for Rederi AB Slite, which was a part of Viking Line, and was to be named Europa. She was the world's largest cruiseferry by gross tonnage until 2001 and still remains by far the largest by passenger capacity. In fact, she carries about as many passengers as the Royal Princess. She was also the location of the first ever floating McDonald's restaurant until 1996.

Europa at the shipyard in Viking Line colours, almost complete.
http://www.simplonpc.co.uk
She was almost ready to be delivered, but then the Swedish krona was devaluated, leaving Slite unable to pay for her. She was then chartered to rival Silja Line, who finally bought her from the shipyard. She was initially placed on the Helsinki - Stockholm route. In September 1994 she was the first one to receive the mayday call of MS Estonia and her captain Esa Mäkelä initially led the rescue operation. In 1995 she was put on Turku–Mariehamn–Stockholm route where she served until early 2013, with minor exceptions. During her service she saw some incidents, just like all ships do. For example, in 1998 she collided with a small sailing boat in thick fog. The boat sunk and Silja Europa rescued the passengers with a lifeboat. In 1998 she crashed into the pier in Mariehamn due to strong winds. In 2000 she had problems with one of her propellers and was taken out of service for five days, in 2001 her autopilot broke down and she had to cancel a cruise. In 2009 she damaged her steering system and was taken to Gdansk for repairs.
In 2006 Silja Line was bought by Tallink, along with the Silja Europa. She continued sailing under the Silja Line brand until early 2013 and in her first 20 years of service she had the Silja Line livery with only minor changes over the years.

Silja Europa in her early years with white funnel and back doors.
www.simplonpc.co.uk
In 2012 she was repainted with the new Silja Line logo; the funnel had been painted blue in 2000.
© Kalle Id
In January 2013 she swapped routes with Baltic Princess and started serving the Tallinn-Helsinki route, mainly cruises directed for the Finnish market. In addition to changing route she was transferred from Silja Line to Tallink. During that era I had the honour to go on board twice, first with the purpose of transport and a year ago I celebrated my birthday on a cruise. She still remains one of the mightiest and most impressive ships I've seen.
Approaching Helsinki in her latest livery

A bit less than a month ago I heard rumours that she would be taken out of service soon and later those rumours turned out to be true, as stated in the following press release, published on the 21st of July: 
AS Tallink Grupp and Bridgemans Services Ltd. have entered into a charter agreement to charter the cruise ferry Silja Europa to Australia from August 2014 as an accommodation vessel.

The period of the charter is at least 14 months with an option to extend up to 48 months. In relation to the above initially the following re-routings are planned in our operations: Baltic Queen which is operating on Tallinn-Stockholm today will change to Tallinn-Helsinki route presumably on 7 August 2014 and Romantika which is operating on Riga-Stockholm route today will change to Tallinn-Stockholm route. Isabelle will continue the service on Riga-Stockholm route.
On the 6th of August she did her last crossings and since then she has been laid up in Paljassaare. From what I've heard, she will leave Tallinn in early September, possibly for good. The changes in the rest of Tallink's fleet may not be final either; I'll keep you updated. After she leaves the Baltic Sea, she will go farther than she has ever been before.

Leaving for her last scheduled voyage to Helsinki
Next day in Paljassaare
Silja Europa and the Moon